Heading to a Pleasure-Way camper van rally in NJ, we decided to leave a few days early and camp at Assateague Island on Maryland’s eastern shore. Getting there from North Carolina provided the opportunity to cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The twenty-three mile bridge, trestle, and tunnel route across the mouth of the bay is an interesting driving experience. The tunnels are there so ships from the largest naval staton in the world, in Hampton Roads, can’t be blocked if the bridge were to be bombed! Stopping for lunch on the man made island in the middle of the bay was fun. Fishing is allowed from the pier and overnight parking is allowed for anyone fishing. We carry a rod just in case it is ever needed. Several van campers we know have spent the night here with a view of the water. It is a unique spot where we watched a freighter cross directly in front of us while munching sandwiches in the comfort of the van.

NOTE: The Sea Gull Fishing Pier, and all other island amenities, will be closing to the public on October 1, 2017 to allow for the construction of the Parallel Thimble Shoal Tunnel.
Another option for a free overnight stop is the rest area at the north end of the bridge, on your right, immediately after you make landfall heading north.
Just after the rest area is a turn-out for the National Wildlife Refuge. The visitor’s center has nice facilities, displays, and helpful rangers. Hiking trails from the center to the water were soaked from recent rains, so we elected to drive the short distance to the bay where we found World War II defenses. Eight-hundred soldiers were stationed here manning big guns and controlling mines protecting Chesapeake Bay.
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Back of the Bunker |
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Seriously Large Shell |
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View from the Gun |
Heading north on 13 we made a stop at the
Blue Crab Bay Company. They are a Harvest Hosts* site where members can camp overnight in their parking lot. While just in an industrial park, they are very convenient for heading north or south. We weren’t staying overnight, but still picked up some crab soup and a couple of sea life inspired towels for the van.
* If you are interested in joining Harvest Hosts, please click on this
referral link to save 15% on your membership. We receive a small incentive.
Our destination was
Assateague State Park. Located on a barrier island, the park is known for the herd of wild horses that wander freely across the island. Because we were arriving the day after Memorial Day, we had reserved a site on-line. It was the last site available in a loop with electricity. Because of a tremendously wet weekend, there were plenty of empty sites when we arrived.
Only a sand dune stood between us and the beach. With unseasonably mild temperatures we listened to the sound of the waves through the open, but screened, windows.
Horses wandered into our camping loop at dinner time. They ignored us and campers maintained a distance from them, except for a few times when horses wandered right into campsites.
You can see why the park recommends you keep all food secured inside your van.
The Coast Guard ran helicopter patrols up and down the beach both evenings of our visit.
During the day we jumped on our bicycles and rode across the street in the National Seashore. Roads and paths made for easy riding on this very level barrier island. We ran into a few more horses and enjoyed visiting the restored lifesaving museum.
Wading birds were great fun to watch in the surf. Despite an almost full campground, there are miles of beaches where one can get away from the crowds.
While eating dinner, we watched a gentleman walk up the steps to the crest of the dune behind our camper van carrying a large bag. The bag had pipes attached and we were treated to a recital backed by the sound of breaking waves.
We thoroughly endorse the campground. The bath houses are modern and clean, rangers are friendly, and the proximity to the National Seashore is great. The choice between this and the National Park, next door is based on how much you desire facilities. National seashore has only pit toilets and outdoor showers, but both have access to the same environment. We met a couple who has been coming every summer for over twenty years! We can see why people keep coming back.
The sun sets over the bay illuminating the vans and trailers of happy campers.