Tuesday was birthday day. It was Steve’s birthday on Sophia and, the main reason for staying here, it was Fraser’s 7th birthday on Icene. Noah made a card and the crew of Calypso gave us a ride over to Icene, who was at the other end of town in the mooring field. The kids had a good time and the adults caught up on what had happened since our paths diverted in the Exumas. Another couple, Babette and Tom on Escape came over and we learned they were from Rutland, Vermont and used to keep their boat in Willsboro, NY on Lake Champlain. They set off for a six month cruise of the Bahamas and have been here for two years in their Hunter 27.
Wednesday we decided to visit Harbour Island via the fast ferry mv Bo Hengy. Bo Hengy is a catamaran passenger ferry running from Nassau to Harbour Island and back with a stop in Spanish Wells. We’ve read lots of warnings about this route, called the “Devils Backbone,” because it has so many reefs. Brought our GPS along to record the route for future reference. It was an interesting trip as we headed north out of Spanish Wells and the ferry revved up to 37 knots into the waves breaking on the reefs after crossing the Atlantic. We enjoyed a great view from the top deck as the captain maintained a fine line between the reefs and the beach. At times we were less than a boat length off the beach, just outside the breaking waves.
Arriving in Harbour Island brought us to a bustling resort community where golf carts are the primary form of transportation. We rented an “off road” cart and set off to explore. First stop was the beach on the Atlantic side where we met five ponies walking on the famous pink (from conch shells) sand beach. From there we headed to the other side of the Island to eat good crached conch and grouper at a “take out” restaurant overlooking the bay. Take-outs are where the locals eat and are considerably less expensive than the fancy resort restaurants. Noah observed a flock of sandpipers with his binoculars while we waited for our food to be cooked.
The resorts here are very nice and we visited most of them. Both marinas are nice, but offer no protection when winds blow from out of the west. Met the crew of Lelsie Ann III, an beautiful Island Packet 485. We helped them cast off their lines and they reported being unable to get off the boat for over 24 hours during the front that we weathered comfortably in Spanish Wells. A dive center, elegant restaurant, and nice cottages all surrounded by flowering shrubs would make this an appealing place for a vacation. Heading down to the “narrows” at the other west end of the island we took some photos of Leslie Ann III in the distance heading towards the Devil’s Backbone towing a pilot boat. We looked for sea beans, but didn’t have any luck. Back in town we tried to spend money at a batique fabric store and a shell shop, but neither was open. Spent our last hour back on the beach where Noah met a family from Massachusetts with two girls and helped them build a sand castle. They were there to celebrate a wedding where eighty guests had accepted the invitation after investigating the location.
Returning to the ferry for our 1600 departure we met a couple on their honeymoon that were both from North Carolina. Also a nice couple from Sweden that knew of the Swedish solar/electric boat we’d met in the Abacos. We would definitely recommend this side trip on the fast ferry. Much less stressful than doing it in your own boat, though not much less expensive than hiring a pilot. The ferry is $25/person round trip and pilots charge $60 each way.
Back at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven (where it is $1/ft and $5 for electric) we were greeted by the crew of Iceni who stayed for an elegant dinner of hot dogs and beans. Noah had a great day, getting to go to have an island adventure, drive a golf cart, play on the beach and see his friends.